Back in the summer of 2019, right after finishing my PhD and before diving into my first postdoc I had some spare time. That gap was the golden window to chase down one of my lifetime dreams: trekking across the Pyrenees, coast to coast. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, I had to stop the trail when I was halfway. Nonetheless, the experience was worth it and I am very grateful for every bit of that wild and epic adventure.
For those seeking more detailed info, GPS tracks and full path, everything is available here .
Day 1 - Llançà - Sant Quirze de Colera:
We start the day at noon since getting to the starting point with public transportation was not an easy task. During the week, Marta, one of my best friends, will be hiking with me, together we will immerse ourselves in the first ascents of the Pyrenees. The starting point is Llançà and we soon leave the asphalt roads and concrete buildings to climb up through sandy tracks that take us to Coll de les Portes. Then we go downhill to reach the chapel of San Silvestre. The track ascends to Coll de la Serra and we go down again to pass through the town of Vilamaniscle and a patchwork of beautiful vineyards. The wide path continues passing through Mediterranean vegetation until we reach the monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera where we decided to spend the night.
Day 2 - Sant Quirze de Colera - Voltants Requessens:
This stage begins with a Mediterranean taste. We continue uphill passing through areas of bushes and with little shade. Then we have to follow a fairly boring stretch of road. We take a path that follows a stream and continue ascending until we reach a lush forest crowded by holm oaks. From there we can still make out at the horizon the Mediterranean sea sending us a warm breeze just before dusk. There, near the Recassens castle, we spent the night under a leafy tree.
Day 3 - Requessens - La Jonquera:
As dawn breaks, clouds start forming in the sky. We leave the forest behind and we ascend amidst bushes. Out of blue we bump into the remains of a plane that crashed in the woods. As we go forward, yellow flowers bloom all around adorning our path. Yet, the beauty and the fun fades quickly as rain starts to pour down dampening our spirits. We pass through a forested area devastated by the fire. Almost at the top, near the Coll de l'Auleda, a drenching rain leaves us soaking wet. We descend to La Jonquera where we look for a hotel to dry our clothes and spend a warm night.
Day 4 - La Jonquera - Maçanet de Cabrenys:
We wake up late and we leave La Jonquera around 10 am. There is no more rain but the sky is still cloudy. We cross the urban area of the town and traverse the main highway that connects Spain and France. Then we start ascending through a forest full of cork oaks. Whispers of past fires are evident from scattered remnants. We get to the town of La Vajol where we stop for lunch and found a bar to have a warm cup of coffee. It is time to go, we take a narrow and steep path under a lush forest that goes down until the vicinity of Maçanet de Cabrenys. We pitched the tent there and I had a bad sleep because the wind was rough and the trees were squeaking the whole night.
Day 5 - Maçanet de Cabrenys - Refugi del Bassegoda Can Galan:
A gusty morning pushes the clouds away and hints of clear sky emerge. We have breakfast in Maçanet de Cabrenys, the town is crowded with people on the streets due to Catalonia's elections. Ascending along a broad trail, a steady incline leads us to the Trilla ruins, where we stop for lunch. The descent weaves through tracks and pathways amidst a pine forest and freshly cleared land, due to a recent deforestation. Eventually, we arrive at Albanyà, where we pause for a coffee and stock up on supplies before we undertake the final climb. A winding, narrow road guides us to the Bassegoda refuge, where we stop for the night, our first indoors since this trek began.
Day 6 - Refugi del Bassegoda Can Galan - Beget:
Today we are stepping into one of the stages I've been eagerly waiting for – a dive into Alta Garrotxa's forests. We start ascending a steep path that guides us to the Bassegoda pass. From there we have spectacular views of the most imposing peaks in the area. We go down a long, yet delightfully engaging trail, amidst green and rocky cliffs. Then we get to the chapel of Sant Aniol surrounded by some ruins.
The path winds its way upward once more, leading us to Talaixa, crossing several streams and passing by forgotten huts and farm houses. Trekking through a patchwork of fields, dusk is approaching so we opt to stop and pitch the tent.
Day 7 - Beget - Camprodon:
We wake up on a cold morning and decide to walk a couple of kilometers to get to Beget and have a warm breakfast in a cozy bar. Beget is a very beautiful town but a bit too turistic. We follow the path but soon we need to leave the GR11 and join another track because today is the last stage with Marta, so we need to reach Camprodon to get a bus to Barcelona. The path passes through lushy forests and it is mostly flat. Yet, we quickly switch to roads, a less scenic but necessary route. Pushing forward, we reach Camprodon just in time, catching the bus as planned, bidding farewell to this leg of the adventure with Marta.
Day 8 - Camprodon - Refugi d’Ulldeter:
A few days later, my partner and I hop on a bus back to Camprodon, eager to resume this adventure. We cross the ancient bridge of Camprondon and we start hiking up a long path that passes through charming farmlands. Following the gentle course of the Ter river, we ascend gradually toward Setcases. The green lushly vegetation present in the morning starts to fade as we face the last ascent. The path steepens, transforming into a rocky ascent. Trees are almost non existent when we reach the shelter of Ulldeter. There we make some tea and look at this rugged yet captivating landscape.
Day 9 - Refugi d’Ulldeter - Queralbs:
Waking to a blazing sunny day, we kick off our adventure ascending until we reach the coll de la Marrana with astonishing views. We are finally grasping the taste of the high mountains of the Pyrenees. We cross many snow patches from the previous winter until we reach the majestic crown of peaks forming Olla de Núria. We walk along the ridge encountering several iconic summits like Noucreus, la Vaca, and Noufonts, granting us panoramic views that unveil the beauty of the Pyrenees sprawling across the horizon. At the Noufonts summit we start going down the valley. It starts as a subtle path hidden beneath snow and boulders and slowly becomes a narrow sandy path that traverses the green grassy land of the Núria valley.
Leaving the Núria sanctuary in our wake, we continue our downhill journey. The trail traces the narrow Freser river valley. Then the steep slopes gentle as we approach Queralbs, where we find another shelter to spend the night.
Day 10 - Queralbs - Puigcerdà:
The stage begins in the town of Queralbs, characterized by its Pyrenean charm. The path gently ascends amid fields and grazing lands. We pass by a stream and the Font de l'Home Mort. The track begins to go down and we quickly arrive at the town of Planoles. From there the path continues through a grassy valley near a busy road. We cross Dorria, the highest town in Catalonia and continue through a clear area with few trees. Further ahead we pass through the Coll de la Creu de Maians and Raso de la Basseta which are over 2000 meters. This is one of the longest stages and our legs are crying out to stop. Luckily, I enjoy the fabulous views at all times. There is only the last descent left, a long path between pines and fir trees takes us to Puigcerdà where we will spend a few days to rest.
Day 11 - Puigcerdà - Andorra la Vella:
We're in for our longest, most uphill stage. Bid farewell to the vast Cerdanya valley as we embark on a rapid ascent along a winding path, heading towards Estany Sec and the Malniu shelter. We cross several paths on high altitude between rugged peaks and treeless slopes. We keep climbing up through rocky terrain until Portella d'Engorgs, a perfect lunch spot offering breathtaking views. We go down and up again, passing scattered pines and a few lakes. Once we traverse into Andorra, Estany de L'Illa fades from our view, and we begin a steady descent for a few kilometers. We run out of water during the downhill stretch but a couple of hikers generously gave us some, just enough to carry us through until we reach Andorra la Vella.
Day 12 - Encamp - Ordino:
The day kicks off with a challenging climb, weaving through a pine forest, leading us gradually to the Coll de Ordino. We pause for a meal on the top and descend along a broad path that sporadically intersects with a road. Traversing close to Ordino, we ascend once more through a shady forest. There we search for a suitable tent spot amidst the uneven terrain and spend the night.
Day 13 - Ordino - Refugi Comapedrosa:
The day dawns with stunning vistas across the Valira del Nord valley. This stage, despite not being very long, crosses many rocky high mountain areas and our heavy backpacks slow us down. Pushing forward, we eventually arrive at the town of Arinsal, located in a narrow valley. The spectacular landscape that surrounds us reminds us that we are amidst the Valls del Comapedrosa park. We climb a fairly demanding path until we reach the Comapedrosa shelter where they let us set up the tent next to the Estany de les Truites.
Day 14 - Refugi Comapedrosa - Àreu:
Another fantastic stage at the top of the Pyrenees despite the demanding elevation gain in fornt of us. A scenic rocky path leaves behind the beautiful views of the Comapedrosa valley before we tackle the Port de Baiau. Leaving Andorra in our wake, we meander between lakes and ponds. The descent is quite technical and there is no clear path, we go down jumping on large boulders, eventually giving way to lush green plains. Gradually descending through wide valleys, we're flanked by the towering rocky walls of Roca Entravessada, La Rouge, Vallpeguera peaks, their grandeur accompanying us for many kilometers. We traverse black pine forests and cattle areas. We finally reached a paved track. We are exhausted and there are only a few kilometers left to reach Àreu, where a campsite awaits, offering some rest after a long day through the Pyrenean marvels.
Day 15 - Àreu - Tavascan:
This stage takes place in one of the most remote areas of Catalonia. We take a wide track that takes us through abandoned shepherds' houses. The climb persists until we hit Coll de Tudela, where we pause for a meal, soaking in the awe-inspiring views of Pica d'Estats, Catalonia's highest peak. Starting our descent, we switch between wide tracks and narrow trails continuously, passing through sparsely wooded areas. We encounter the towns of Boldís Sobirà and Boldís Jussà, seemingly deserted by permanent inhabitants. Following a flat path, we cross a steep ravine. Then, we descend once more until we reach the reservoir and the quiet town of Tavascan. After stocking up on supplies, we go on another kilometer to seek out a cozy spot to place the tent.
Day 16 - Tavascan - Borda d’en Jan (Estaon):
We continue one more day in this land of solitude, trekking without encountering a soul along the way. Our morning begins on a trail leading to Aineto's charming cobblestone streets. We continue at a steady pace along a path surrounded by trees and bushes that give us shade for a few minutes. But soon, the trail winds up a steep slope, the climb is stretching endlessly without a tree in sight. Luckily we finally arrive to the Coll del Jou where we rested for a while, had lunch and took a nap. The descent unfolds gently, tracing a path along a stream that passes between abandoned houses until we reach Estaon. We are still feeling strong so we decided to climb a few more kilometers to spend the night in a field with some cattle. The cows are initially pretty far but they are approaching by the hour, and at night, they surround the tent.
Day 17 - Borda d’en Jan (Estaon) - Espot:
Last day of this adventure, the sky looking moody, and we have got personal constraints that force us to end this journey. We wake up surrounded by cows. We share breakfast in their company before hitting the trail for our final day trek. Climbing through a pine-filled forest, we push till we hit Coll de Lo Caubo. We go down a steep rocky slope snaking a narrow path, and eventually, reaching the town of La Guingueta d'Àneu and the reservoir of la Torrassa. A perfect spot for a coffee and rest for a while before tackling the last kilometers. We resume our hike and head west passing by the charming stone houses of Estaís decorated with plenty of red and pink flowers. Onward we go until we finally reach Espot, marking the end of our journey. Maybe someday I'll pick up where I left off and make it all the way to the Cantabrian Sea. Nevertheless, these days spent immersed in nature, soaking in the splendor of the Pyrenees, have been an incredible experience.
